As it happens, I’m the son and grandson of gunsmiths I have been shooting since I was seven years old and writing, with some internal conflict, about firearms culture for a decade and a half.
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I had come for the discount “ Full Auto Experience”: For $299, you can choose six machine guns to fire from a selection of 12, including a fully automatic Glock pistol (“As seen in Skyfall,” Machine Guns Vegas’s website announces) an AK-47 several variants of the AR-15’s rapid-fire military cousin, the M4 carbine and the infamous Israeli Uzi submachine gun. “Someone to take pictures of you with your phone out there,” she clarified. “Do you want a paparazzi?” she asked as she handed me safety glasses and ear protectors. Now I have an AR-9,” she said, referring to a pistol-style variation on the AR-15 that fires 9mm handgun ammunition, as the muffled sound of full-automatic fire drifted back to us from the sealed range behind her. “I knew nothing about this before, never thought I’d own a gun. Del Sol, it turned out, was from Miami, not too far from where I grew up, but firearms were not a part of her life in the Gunshine State.
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“A lot of people ask, ‘Do you serve liquor?’” Genesis Del Sol, one of the staff, told me, laughing and rolling her eyes as she took my driver’s license and verified my reservation. The check-in desk is graced by a large sign: GUESTS WHO HAVE CONSUMED ALCOHOL WILL NOT BE PERMITTED ON RANGE-NO EXCEPTIONS. Beyond that, on another table, MGV-branded shot glasses are laid out for sale, including some designed to look like shotgun shells. For the ladies, there’s a tank top that reads GUNS AND ROSÉ. A jacketed rifle round is captioned JUST THE TIP, I PROMISE. Inside, the music is loud and the vibe suggestive of a bro-heavy sports bar, except for the intimidating panoply of weapons spotlighted on the brick walls and the swag shop selling pithy T-shirts.
The Machine Guns Vegas indoor range is a gray box, squat and nondescript. Major joints include Bullets and Burgers, Gunship Helicopters, The Vegas Machine Gun Experience, and Battlefield Vegas. Regulations have not and will not prevent machine-gun enthusiasts or the merely machine-gun curious from dropping hundreds of dollars at special ranges to fire these weapons, including those no mere civilian would ordinarily have the opportunity to touch. Machine Gun Bebe-told me when I visited Machine Guns Vegas, where Noyes works as a gun restorer and range safety officer. But Sin City, where pot is legal and people can walk the street with alcoholic beverages in to-go cups, remains “a haven of machine gun tourism,” as Bebe Noyes-a.k.a. In the three years since the Las Vegas Strip massacre, the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives (ATF) has broadened its definition of machine guns-which in the United States have been regulated into scarcity-to include these “bump-stock–type devices,” mandating that anyone in possession of such a device must have surrendered or destroyed it by March 26, 2019. In 10 minutes, the shooter killed 58 concertgoers and injured more than 500, before he shot himself in the head with a revolver. This accessory enables a shooter to “ bumpfire” a semiauto rifle, meaning that every time you depress the trigger, the weapon’s natural recoil from firing pushes the trigger back against your finger and causes the weapon to fire again-a deadly perpetual motion that simulates a machine gun’s “fully automatic” action. To increase the rate of fire on the 14 AR-15s he was using, all of which he’d purchased legally, the killer affixed “bumpstock” attachments to them. Semiautomatic guns fire a single round with every pull of the trigger. On October 1, 2017, just after country star Jason Aldean took the stage for a finale at the annual Route 91 Harvest music festival, a 64-year-old man armed with 22 military-pattern semiautomatic rifles fired 1,100 rounds into the concert grounds from an upper floor of the nearby Mandalay Bay hotel, as audience members ducked for cover or ran in terror. I had been in Las Vegas for two days before I looked up the site of the deadliest mass shooting in American history and realized that it had occurred in the open lot across the boulevard from my hotel.
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